THE AIR WOLF

Disassembly Guide

AIR WOLF PARTS LIST

PART NUMB.DESCRIPTIONCODEQ.TY
1breech block elec. ( engraved air wolf )D3BKMACHDBT1
2alum. breech insert 0.177"D3ALINS17BT1
2alum. breech insert 0.20"D3ALINS20BT1
2alum. breech insert 0.22"D3ALINS22BT1
2alum. breech insert 0.25"D3ALINS25BT1
3Dowel Ø1/8 x 1''D3DOW18X1X1
4Spring LC016A 10MWD3SPR16A10M1
5skt set_UNI5929_M4x6D3SKTM4X6CO3
6skt set_UNI5929_M4x4D3SKTM4X4CO5
7BallBearing 1/8" (3.2)D3BAL1800SC2
8Spring LC014A 6MWLC014A 6MW2
9breech bolt 0,177"D3BRBOL17BT1
9breech bolt 0,20"D3BRBOL20BT1
9breech bolt 0,22"D3BRBOL22BT1
9breech bolt 0,25"D3BRBOL25BT1
10o ring 003 -NBR-70Sh ( cal. 0,177" )D3OR70003CO1
10o ring 005 -NBR-70Sh ( cal. 0,20" ) D3OR70005CO1
10o ring 004 -NBR-70Sh ( cal. 0,22" )D3OR70004CO1
10o ring 005 -NBR-70Sh ( cal. 0,25" )D3OR70005CO1
11Breech bolt handle RHD3BOLTHANBR1
11Breech bolt handle LHMISSING1
12magazine activator RHD3MAGACTVXX1
12magazine activator LHD3MAGCTLH1
13anti tamper screw 4- BA x 3/4"D3TAMSCREXX2
14slt csk 4BA x 1/2"D3CSK4BAX122
15skt cap_UNI5931_M3x20D3SKTM320CO2
16port bush Ø3,0D3PORBUS3.01
16port bush Ø3,2D3PORBUS3.21
16port bush Ø3,4D3PORBUS3.41
16port bush Ø3,5D3PORBUS3.51
16port bush Ø4,2D3PORBUS4.21
16port bush Ø4,8D3PORBUS4.81
17o ring 008 ( Ø4.47x1.78 ) -NBR-90ShBOR00890SH2
18Bolt Spacer ( short )MISSING1
19Skt Cap 4BAx1/4"MISSING1
20WP discDETICHETTEX1
21bezel display ( glued with LCD display in UK )D3BEZEL00BT1
22LCD display - wired FFC1
23slt chead zinc - UNI6107 - M2x10D3CHEM210CO2
24barrel 17" - cal 0.177D3BAR1717BT1
24barrel 17" - cal 0.20D3BAR2017BT1
24barrel 17" - cal 0.22D3BAR2217BT1
24barrel 17" - cal 0.25D3BAR2517BT1
25striker housing AWD3MAIBOAWXX1
26trigger housingD3TRHOUELTH1
27trigger blade electricalD3BLADELCTB1
28circuit boardMISSING1
29skt set - UNI5923 - M3x12D3SKTFM312CO1
30skt set - UNI5923 - M3x4D3SCKM3X4CO1
31skt set - UNI5923 - M3x6DSCKM3XM6CO2
32brass spring guideD3BRASTRIGUI1
33elec. trigger spring LCO014BD3SPR14B2CO1
34trigger leaf springD3LEAFSPRTH1
35dowel - ISO2338 - Ø2x14D3DOW02X14X1
36slt chead zinc - UNI6107 - M4x61
37microswitch_D2F-L - wiredD3BPBREMISW1
38slt chead zinc - UNI6107 - M2x122
39nut - DIN934 - M2D3NUT2MMOCO2
40female recharge bush - wired1
41safety lock switch - wired1
42slt chead zinc - UNI6107 - M3x63
43Skt Cap 1/4-BSW x 3/4"1
44sticky spots - large ( 140x38 mm )1
45circuit board - CDT1
46sticky spots - small ( 60x22 mm / cut )1
47solenoid plastic spacer2
48solenoid1
49solenoid striker hammerD3SOSTHAMXX1
50solenoid alum. spacerD3ALSP110XX1
51solenoid springD3SOLSPRICD1
52o-ring 118 - Ø21.89x2.62 (3057) - NBR-70ShD3ORI118N701
53Safety BodyD3SABODELSC1
54grub screw cup point 4BA x 1/8"D3SKT4A18SC3
55skt cap_UNI5931_M6x6D3CAPM6X6XX1
56dowel_ISO8734_Ø2.5x8D3DOW25X8XX1
57Safety Cover UNID3REARCAPSC1
58Skt Cap 4BAx1/2"D3SKT4B12CO1
59nut 4 BAD3NUT4BAXXX1
60Rubber shock absorber ( short )D3BUN11X7CO1
60Rubber shock absorber ( long - FAC )D3BUN11X11X1
61Perspex Safety Catch LeverD3CLEARLESC1
62HOUSING A 12-30 fpeD3HSA1230HA1
62HOUSING A 40-60 fpeD3HSAAW18401
63o-ring 006 - Ø2.9x1.78 (2012) - NBR - 70ShD3ORN7006CO1
64Striker Valve O'ring RetainerD3STRVORRCO1
65valve stemD3STEMHARPXX1
66valve seal Ø4.5 ( ???? Check !! )D3HARSEAL121
66valve seal Ø5.0 ( ???? Check !! )D3HARSEAR121
66valve seal Ø5.3 ( cal. 0,25 - 40Ft/Lbs )D3HARSEARFA1
67o-ring 111 - Ø10.77x2.62 (3043) urethaneD3ORN9111CO1
68Stem springD3SPR3513CO1
69HOUSING B - AWD3HSBWOLHA1
70o-ring 112 ( Ø12.37x2.62 ) - NBR 70SHD3OR11200CO2 or 1
70*o-ring 014 (Ø12.42x1.78)-NBR-70Sh ( ISM without baffle )D3ORN7014CO1 or 0
71skt set - UNI5923 - M5x5D3SKTM5X5CO1
72skt cap_UNI5931_M5x25D3SKTCM5X255
73air filter 1/8"D3FILTRHUMK1
74dowty seal self centering 1/8 bspD3DOWSE18CO2
75Male Connector ExtensionD3MALEEXTCO1
76o-ring 113 (3056) NBR D3OR11300CO1
77stainless steel pistonD3PISTON00FV1
78o-ring 006 - Ø2.9x1.78 (2012) - urethaneD3ORURA06FV1
79male connectorD3MALECONCO1
80dowty seal self-centering M8D3DOWPP213CO1
81pressur sensor - wiredD3PRESSENCY1
82Skt Csk 2-BA x 3/8"MISSING2
83Dowel Ø1/4"x 1.1/4''MISSING1
84o ring 617 ( Ø17.86x2.62 ) -NBR - 70ShD3OR70617MV1
85Bottle 500ccD3BOTTLE5001
86AIRWOLF - stockMISSING1
87butt - padD3PADBLCUXXX1
88butt pad screwD3SCRPAD5X352
89button head screw M12x35MISSING1
90dust coverD3DUSTCARAW1
91Shroud AW-ARD3ISMODAWAR1
92BREECH END INSERTD3ISMINARAW1
93END CAP ADAPTOR ( with thread 1/2 unf )D3ADA12AWAR1
93END CAP ( without thread 1/2 unf , end cover not needed )D3ISMECARAW1
94KNURLED END COVERD3KNURLAWAR1 or 0
95FAC BAFFLED3ISBAFARAW1 or 0
96MUZZEL END INSERTD3ISMUZARAW1
97skt set tip - UNI5927 - M4x4D3SKTM4X4CO2
98o-ring 016 ( Ø15.6x1.78) - NBR - 70ShOR016N701
99battery type 1 1
100battery type 21

INTRODUCTION

Daystate air rifles are engineered to the highest standards, but like anything else, they require repairs and servicing work to be carried out both in and out of warranty. 

The aim of this guide and the accompanying video is to help you undertake work on the Daystate Air Wolf to address common faults.  

Compressed air is dangerous. You should only use this guide if you are a qualified and experienced gunsmith used to working with compressed air. Before you carry out any work on the Daystate Air Wolf, or any PCP air rifle for that matter, you must ensure it is not cocked, not loaded and empty of air. 

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED (00:33)

  • Allen keys: 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm. 1/16, 3/32, 5/16 inch
  • Long nose pliers
  • 16 mm spanner
  • Adjustable spanner
  • Triangular anti-tamper tool
  • Tweezers
  • Flat blade screwdriver: 3mm, 6mm, 12mm
  • Magnets

NOTES ON AIR WOLF

Approximately 11,000 Air Wolfs were made between 2005 and 2012 There are 3 distinct types of air wolf which can be easily distinguished by the seral number prefix:

AW- 2005- 2009 original Air Wolf with a CDT system.

MCT- 2009-2012 (model used in this strip down) improved consistency with MCT system.

MVT- 2018-2012 As the MCT but with the addition of a chronograph unit fitted inside the shroud replacing the front baffle.

The strip down procedure is virtually identical for all types with minor adaptions. MVT owners should tale care with the wire to the chronograph which is easily damaged. Should this happen, spares can be obtained from Daystate Ltd or their agents.

REMOVING THE STOCK AND DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY

01:10 Loosen and remove the stock bolt on the underside of the forend using a 5/16 allen key and the filler cap (01:18).  This will allow the stock to lift off. 

Stock removal uses an 8mm allen key


Stock removed

01:39 Remove the battery by disconnecting the plastic connector. Take care to pull on the plastic connector itself and not on the wires. It is recommended that once disconnected, you leave the rifle overnight so the battery can fully discharge.  

Battery location and removal

DE-GASSING THE RIFLE AND REMOVING THE FILL PORT

Note: The Daystate Air Wolf featured in the video is fitted with a fill port that does not have a gauze filter. As a result, it can be de-gassed using  the Daystate degassing tool available for the Daystate website here or can be ordered from your local Daystate dealer.  If your rifle has a fill port that is fitted with a gauze filter, the tool cannot be used. Details on how to de-gas without the de-gassing tool are provided later in the guide. 

04:50 Disconnect the fitting from the bottom of the de-gassing tool and locate over the foster fit fill port and then screw in the de-gassing tool. You will feel air being dumped. Leave the tool in place until all air has been released. Then remove the tool.  

Bleed tool in use

05:19 Loosen the foster fit using a 16mm spanner to ensure all air has been released. If the foster fitting is not loose, it is likely that air is still in the bottle. Use the de-gassing tool again.  

05:45 If your rifle is fitted with a gauze filter, use a 16mm spanner to loosen the foster fitting slowly to release the air. Check the foster fitting is completely loose to ensure all air has been released.  

06:12 The foster fitting can now be unscrewed and removed.  

Removing the complete filler valve assembly

06:18 The two components to the foster fitting can be separated by placing the rounder end in a soft jaw vice and loosening the other end with a 16mm spanner. 

06:48 The one-way fill valve is removed by placing an allen key or similar into the foster fitting and pushing it out.  

Filling valve dismantled

REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING THE SHROUD

07:19 The barrel band is removed by loosening the three securing grub screws using a 1.5mm allen key. This will allow the barrel band to slide off the bottle. 

Later rifles have a barrel support

07:44 The shroud is removed by loosening the grub screws on the shroud above the neck of the air bottle using a 2mm allen key. This will allow the shroud to slide off the barrel. 

Two screws secure the shroud

08:08 Remove the thread protector from the muzzle end of the shroud.  

08:16 Use a wide flat bladed screwdriver to remove the end cap from the muzzle end of the shroud.  

08:32 Pull out the baffle. Take care as the baffle is likely to be covered in lead dust.  

08:48 Use a nylon rod or similar and insert into the back of the shroud to push out the barrel carrier.  

The complete barrel assembly

REMOVING THE BOTTLE AND BOTTLE HOUSING

09:18 The bottle can be unscrewed by hand.  

09:30 On MCT and MVT models, disconnect the pressure sensor using a small set of long nose pliers. Pull the tab on the connector block back and use the pliers to grip the connector block and pull it free. Do not pull on the wires.  

Pressure sensor plug

10:07 Loosen the five allen bolts on the bottle housing using a 4mm allen key. (10:25) Apply light pressure with your thumb to the bottle housing before removing the last screw as pressure from the valve return will push against the bottle housing.  

10:40 With the bottle housing removed, feed the pressure sensor through the block so you can remove the housing itself. 

Removing the bottle housing

10:50 The pressure sensor is removed from the bottle using by using an adjustable spanner to loosen the sensor and then remove by hand.  

REMOVING THE VALVE AND VALVE SEAT

11:46 The valve return spring, valve pin and valve seat are removed by pulling it free from the uppermost hole in the main block using a pair of tweezers.  

Valve, valve spring and valve seal removal


Valve seal shown face up, insert valve pin into this side

ADDITIONAL BOTTLE AND BOTTLE HOUSING INFORMATION

Note: Both the air bottle and bottle housing have a working life of 10 years. It is recommended they are both replaced after 10 years. The manufacture date of the bottle is stamped onto the bottle.  

When replacing the bottle housing it is also recommended that you replace the five securing bolts. These are high tensile M5 x 27mm overall length including the head.  

REMOVING THE BREECHBLOCK

14:21 To disconnect the screen, locate the connector at the top of the cavity. Push down on the two tabs with a flat head screwdriver. This will allow you to lift off the board (14:52) which is held in place with velcro. 

Separating the block from the tube


Display board showing tape connector top left

15:21 Remove the six screws on the top of the block. There are four cap head bolts and two flat head screws. Use a 2.5mm allen key to remove the four cap head bolts and a flat head bolts. Note that depending on the age and country of origin of your Air Wolf, the two rear-most bolts may not be allen bolts. They could be triangle anti-tamper bolts which will require the Daystate anti-tamper tool to remove. Pull back the bolt to undo the two flat head screws. 

6 screws connect the block, front are 3mm, middle are slotted and rear are 3.32in

16:19 Pull the two halves of the block apart. Take care to not catch the ribbon cable in the screen cavity. 

Separating the block from the tube

REMOVING THE LCD SCREEN

16:40 To remove the LCD screen, loosen the two screws using a flat bladed screwdriver. This will allow you to pull the screen loose. Take care to not snag the ribbon cable. 

REMOVING THE BARREL

18:17 Open the pellet probe by pulling back the cocking bolt. (18:23) This will give access to the transfer port which can be removed using a pair of long-nose pliers.  

18:30 The small ‘o’ ring beneath the transfer port can be removed with a small flat bladed screwdriver or similar.  

18:50 A matching transfer port  ‘o’ ring is located in the bottom part of the block can also be removed using a flat bladed screwdriver or similar. 

19:29 Push the cocking bolt forward and lift off he brass component (19:33) using a flat bladed screwdriver or similar. Note that it is spring loaded, so take care when removing. 

Transfer port removal

19:43 Use a set of tweezers to remove the plunger. 

The indexing arm plunger

19:52 Use a magnet to remove the spring. Place the magnets above the spring housing and move towards the open end. 

Behind the pin is a spring

20:09 Remove the four grub screws – two on the bottom of the top block and two shorter grub screws located on the underside forward of the slot using a 2mm allen key. (20:22) This will allow the barrel to be pull free of the block.  

Barrel removal

REMOVING THE PELLET PROBE

20:56 Remove the spring ball de-tent at the top of the block just forward of the cocking bolt. Use a 2mm allen key to first remove the grub screw. Use a magnet to remove the small spring and ball bearing underneath. 

21:19 The cocking dog is removed by using a 3/32 allen key to remove the allen bolt in the cavity on the underside of the top block.  These can be quite tight and also held in place with a small amount of Loctite.  

Removing the cocking dog (bolt pin)

21:36 Pull the cocking bolt free from the top block. 

REMOVING THE TRIGGER HOUSING AND MAIN BOARD

22:10 Disconnect the coil wires by disconnecting the lager of the two plastic connectors on the electronic board. Push down on the tab (22:21) then use a set of tweezers or small set of long nose pliers to pull the block free. Do not pull on the wires. 

Do not pull on the wires

22:38 Remove the trigger housing from the block by loosening the bolt locate in a hole forward of the trigger using a 3/16 allen key. This will allow you to lift off the trigger housing and circuit board. 

Removing the trigger unit from the action

DISASSEMBLING THE HAMMER HOUSING AND REMOVING THE COIL

23:06 Use a 1/16 allen key to remove the two grub screws at the rear of the block to remove the safety housing. (23:18) Keep a grip on the safety as it is sprung.  

23:27 The hammer and hammer return spring can be removed from the back of the block.  

Safety and hammer removal

23:31 The retention ‘o; ring can also be removed from the back of the block. 

23:39 Remove the aluminium spacer from the rear of the block.  

Most rifles have this spacer, on later rifles the spacer is replaced with a longer solenoid

23:51 To remove the coil, lay the wires down into a small cut out in the coil housing. Then push the wires through the slot in the block and pull the coil and coil housing free using a set of tweezers or small pair of long nose pliers to ease the coil through the back of the block. 

Solenoid removal

25:18 Use a long flat bladed screwdriver through the block to undo the brass nut inside and remove the component from the end of the block. Take care to not lose a small ‘o’ ring behind the brass nut. You may need to pick the ‘o’ ring free using a small flat blade screwdriver or similar. 

DISASSEMBLING THE SAFETY

26:06 Remove the grub screw at the back using a 1.5mm allen key. Remove the small spring and ball bearing behind using a magnet.  

26:29 Remove the rubber bung from the other side of the safety catch housing by hand to expose a bolt that can be removed using a 5mm allen key.  This will allow the two halves of the safety housing apart.  

26:55 The plastic safety switch can be removed by pulling it free by hand. Note though that it may be glued in at the factory.  

REMOVING THE MAIN CIRCUIT BOARD

27:15 To remove the circuit board from the trigger housing, tip out the bolt that holds the trigger housing onto the block that was loosened earlier.   

27:25 Disconnect the remaining three connector plugs, pushing in the tabs and then using a small set of long-nose pliers or tweezers to pull the blocks. Do not pull the wires. 

The Air Wolfs CDT board and trigger components

28:25 To remove the circuit board from the trigger housing you will need to undo three small screws using a small blade bladed screwdriver. Peel back the white tape to expose two of the screw heads. (28:47) You will need to locate the third screw locate under the tape towards the top corner forward of the trigger and then cut a small flap to access the screw head. Once removed, you will be able to lift off the circuit board. 

DISASSEMBLING THE TRIGGER

29:28 The trigger blade is removed from the trigger assembly by undoing the screw immediately above the front of the trigger guard using a flat blade screwdriver. (29:34) Note there a small spring under the plate.  

29:40 Hook out the spring. 

29:51 Use a thin allen key to push out the pin in the side of the trigger housing immediately above the front of the trigger blade. This will allow the trigger blade to be removed through the top of the housing.  

Trigger blade removal

30:15 The trigger switch is removed by loosening the two screws using a small flat bladed screwdriver. Take care to not lose the two nuts behind. (30:31) Use a magnet to pull the screws out of the two holes. (30:49) This will allow the trigger switch to be removed. 

Removing the trigger switch


Trigger switch removed